In a city known for its tightly-packed streets and fairytale architecture, do something a little unexpected: follow your local insider off the beaten track to laid-back Batignolles. An excursion through this quirky, village-esque district will show you a side of modern Paris you didn’t even know existed. There’s Art42, France’s first museum dedicated to street art, hearty Senegalese stews served at open-air organic markets, and the Place de Clichy – a lively intersection where you’ll swivel your head between giant cinema billboards. Ready to come down from the buzz? There’s nothing pretentious about a Batignolles bar, and a relaxing glass of wine and a small plate of charcuterie shared with your host is the perfect way to end the day.

When central Paris gets too crowded, the peaceful 17th arrondissement in the northwest of the city – just over a mile from the Arc de Triomphe – is a welcome relief. Boho Batignolles is a colorful melting pot of alternative Parisian culture. Stroll along the Rue Sauffroy, the center of the area’s African community, where products from across the continent are sold, then head south to Rue des Batignolles to spy bobos – bourgeois-bohemians – shopping offbeat clothing brands and sitting at sidewalk cafes. Just down the street, the Marché couvert Batignolles, a covered market selling fresh produce, cheeses, and takeaway treats, is the perfect place to grab a pastry or a make-shift picnic to enjoy in a secret corner of Square des Batignolles.